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Cartire (Cartier) Classic Totem Leopard

2012/3/26 10:55:00 30

Sapphire Cartire Brooch

Sapphires almost as big as table tennis; a brilliant 152.35 carat convex circle.

Sapphire

A diamond cheetah stands on the sapphire with dignity. The Panther is dotted with convex round sapphire marks.

The mysterious customer who made this artistic treasure and her husband fascinated the jewelry, while Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976), Cartire's senior jewellery director, gazed at her masterpiece on the other side of the table. She injected life into the jewel cheetah.


  


Cheetah brooch,

Cartier

Paris, 1949


Sapphire almost as big as table tennis; a brilliant 152.35 carat convex circular sapphire.

A diamond cheetah stands on the sapphire with dignity. The Panther is dotted with convex round sapphire marks.

The mysterious customer who made this artistic treasure and her husband fascinated the jewelry, while Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976), Cartire's senior jewellery director, gazed at her masterpiece on the other side of the table. She injected life into the jewel cheetah.

When the customers were delighted and shocked, the representative of Zhen Du Sang was completely successful.

This customer is the famous woman of the Duchess of Windsor (1895-1986) in history, who caused a storm of turmoil in the British throne in 1936.


  


Duchess of Windsor (1896-1986)


Almost at the same time a year ago, the two ladies met for the first time to discuss cheetah's theme of creation.

At that time the Duchess of Windsor had just bought a 116.75 carat rectangle emerald.

Zhen Du sang made a design for this emerald.

Brooch

A cheetah made of gold sits on top of a gem, and the leopard is covered with black enamel stains.


  


Zhen Du Sang

(1887-1976) lady, creative director of Cartire senior jewellery


The Duchess and her former British king Edward Bath (King of England Edward VIII) (1894-1972), two loved this jewel treasure.

However, the new challenge has emerged: to design a cheetah full of rare gem, the way and texture of the cheetah must show the feline's unique soft muscles and posture.

This work will create a historical monument for the far-reaching origin of Cartire and cheetahs.

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Lady and Cheetah invitation card / George bable, 1914


The origin of Cartire and Cheetah began in 1914. Louis George (Louis Cartier) (1875-1942) commissioned the George Barbier, an illustrator, to design an invitation card with the theme of "lady and leopard".

George bable, using the late Belle style design, depicts a young woman dressed in the wrinkle dress of Paul Poiret (Paul Poiret), and a cheetah leash at her feet.

In the same year, black and white leopard print became one of the decorative elements of Cartire. It appeared on two women's watches designed in 1914 and 1915.

Two years later, Mrs. Louis, who was already a member of the Louis Cartire social circle, took the lead in buying a dressing box with a cheetah.


At that time, the cheetah appeared in a clear and lifelike form. However, it was only a planar pattern, almost thirty years later.

Zhen Du sang and Louis Cartire met at the beginning of the first World War. They entered Cartire in 1933 and were appointed senior jewellery directors. These two events played a key role in the creation of cheetah.

Zhen Du sang is an independent woman with freedom of thought, and loves art. Her relatives and friends nicknamed her "cheetah lady".

On the floor of her apartment in Paris, a luxurious cheetah skin carpet is adorned.



Chaste tulson loved this delicate fur, however, with her desire to design jewels, and the desire of the Duchess of Windsor to wear it, without the participation of artist and designer, Peter Lemarchand (1900-1970), it was not enough to inspire her to inject a lot of life into the cheetah's brooch in 1949.

Peter Le Ma Shang served in Cartire in 1927.


In the years after the Second World War, Peter Le Ma Shang profoundly changed the design style of Animal Jewelry: Contrary to the traditional form, he used the simple style of decoration art to give them three-dimensional dynamics.

His design is more natural, combined with jewelry craftsmen and inlaid craftsmen's skills, so that animal totem from the plane of the fine, into a full three-dimensional active style.


In 1952, Duchess of Windsor ordered another cheetah jewellery with Onyx and diamond inlaid.

Cartire's talented designers will bring the design to a new height. This time, the cheetah has become an active bracelet.

When the bracelet is fully unfolded, it looks like a leopard leopard, but when the Duchess twists it around her wrist, it shows an incredible softness.


 





 
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