Is It Wrong For Lanvin To Be A Creative Director?

although fashion Circle has become accustomed to the coming and going of creative directors, but nothing is more controversial than the high-level changes of Lanvin two years ago. When he was Lanvin creative director, 54 years old Morocco Designer Alber Elbaz just finished the 2016 spring and summer show in Paris, and won the "Super Star Award" issued by the international fashion organization, but suddenly received the news of the dismissal. Instead of his Bouchra Jarrar, the designer Bush, known for her minimalist design, was "divergent in ideas, and Lanvin's profits fell by 2 million 500 thousand euros in 2015."

Two years later, Lanvin's performance shows that the creative director alone may not be able to save the 128 year old French fashion house. According to the world clothing and shoe net, Lanvin sales fell by 23% to 162 million euros last year, only half of the peak period in 2012 (235 million euros). In the first two months of this year, its sales continued to decline by 32%.

"Bouchra Jarrar's first series is very bad, and the second series is not so good." An anonymous person said in an interview. This led to Lanvin's first loss in 10 years last year, with a net loss of 18 million 300 thousand euros. The anonymous person also said that this figure will expand to 27 million euros in 2017.

Lanvin did not respond to these data. However, the company currently has 300 employees has found a consultancy called "Long Term Partners", hoping to cut down the cost by closing down unprofitable stores, reducing advertising expenses and firing 9 employees.

stay Luxury goods In the context of universal recovery, such news is somewhat surprising, but it is also reasonable.

Lanvin 2017 early spring vacation series

Unlike Gucci, LV and other brands, Lanvin is one of the few European fashion houses that have yet to be bought by luxury goods group. In 2001, Wang Xiaolan, a Taiwan businessman, bought Lanvin men's clothes and perfume business from L'OREAL group, and then quickly took power. It was also when she found the brand creative director Alber Elbaz, who was fired just because Yves Saint Laurent was bought by Kai Yun group, and asked him to retune the Lanvin.

Alber Elbaz started the second landmark of the 2001 and laid the landmark design style of Lanvin. In the words of Virginia Smith Smith, director of marketing, from behind, the naked zipper to ribbon lace is emphasizing "a sense of regret".

In the luxury industry, successful companies need creative directors and CEO's successful partners. During the term of Alber Elbaz, Lanvin, in addition to the short-lived operation of Wang Xiaolan's relatives, has gone through two CEO, the Paul Deneve (2006-2009 years) of the French brand Nina Ricci, and the Moschino CEO CEO Thierry (2009-2013 years). By adjusting the brand's wholesale and retail channels and laying stores, they made Lanvin's turnover reach 240 million euros.

Bouchra Jarrar, creative director of Lanvin since March 2016 last year.

But frequent turnover of executives has been a fatal problem for Lanvin. Wang Xiaolan, 75, is regarded as a "dictator". She is unwilling to accept acquisitions, unwilling to invest more money in the brand, and unwilling to do so.

The German investor, Ralph Bartel, is the director of Lanvin, who has the largest share of Lanvin outside Wang Xiao Lan, but he is not allowed to inject capital into Lanvin, because it will dilute Wang Xiaolan's equity.

In letters addressed to management and employees, Elbaz also mentioned this: "lack of effective business strategy and investment has led to stagnation of corporate performance". This view was supported by many employees at that time.

In addition, Lanvin is still a garment oriented company and lacks strong accessories business. Its clothing and accessories revenue ratio is 60/40, or even once insiders said the ratio could reach 80/20. This means that Lanvin can hardly grow like the other luxury brands from the most profitable and most popular accessories business.

According to the world clothing shoes and hats net, management seems to be thinking of expanding the leather product line to increase profits until now. However, the channel they choose is a little "rush to the doctor" -- Oteri J and discount stores, rather than high-end shopping centers.

It is hard to say whether this way will make Lanvin get into the risk of brand cheaply outside the existing problems.

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